Dish on Dining

Saying Goodbye
First, let me get the bad news out of the way. This is not a good time to own a restaurant. Heinemann’s just closed its three remaining restaurants, The Social (which had moved to its First Street location in 2004) is no longer socializing, and Restaurant Hama (at Fox Point’s Audubon Court) has hung it up after 10 years of business. With its mixture of raw selections and cooked dishes with fusion touches, Hama had some amazing culinary moments. For years, it was one of my favorites. Co-owner Lesley Kagen confirmed to me that the economy did Hama in. I know it’s only January, but 2009 may turn out to be the year of restaurant post-mortems.

Second Street “Fuzion”
Gloom and doom notwithstanding, I’m always going to look for the silver lining. Like a new restaurant. Inspired by the diversity of Walker’s Point, Tara Ali opened Fuzion Café & Lounge about a month ago (at 524 S. Second St., 414-455-3281). The tagline on her business is “a collision of culture, music, art, fashion, food and drink.” To no surprise, given the theme, the menu is “modern international.” For variety, there are Mexican wontons and crawfish egg rolls (appetizers), lobster pizza and lollipop chicken (small plates) and Korean kalbi beef and curry chicken with mango (entrées). Theme nights are currently Tuesdays (Caribbean) and Thursdays (Middle Eastern). Ali also hopes to add a Thai night, since her head chef is Bang Tongkumbunjong, from Bang Thai Cuisine in Mequon. Hours: Tues-Thurs 5-11 p.m.; Fri-Sat 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Prices: starters and small plates $4-$10; sliders $7.50-$8; entrees $14.50-$16.

The Day After
I know lot of people who could have used a hangover brunch everyday for the last two weeks. Yeah, the holidays make it easy to overindulge. I don’t think you need to go postal with booze to appreciate a hangover brunch. This one takes

place every Saturday at Cubanitas (728 N. Milwaukee St., 414-225-1760). The brunch, technically, has been going on for a while. You can get a Cuban sandwich or ropa viejas (shredded flank steak). I’m told that the specials are new – an egg, chorizo and onion sandwich on Cuban bread, and an egg platter with Cuban potatoes, chorizo and Cuban toast. If you’re hangover-ing, I would suggest water or OJ as a beverage. But if you think differently, there are mimosas, Bloody Marys and Bloody Marias (the vodka replaced with tequila).

Small Plates, Big Night
A few weeks ago, I was eating braised pork empanadas, veal osso buco and sambal goreng udang (an Indonesian shrimp and coconut milk dish) at La Merenda, one of my Walker’s Point favorites (125 E. National Ave., 414-389-0125). What amazed me as I sat there in the packed dining room was that people kept filling in to eat as late as 10 p.m. An average weeknight, and it was jammed. Diners were going to town on the small plates ($4.50 to $9.25). This week, chef/co-owner Peter Sandroni and his partners closed the restaurant to take some time off after the holidays. I think they need it. Next week, they’re back. And Thursday will be a big night – the night for Wine School, which is held here on the third Thursday of every month. On Jan. 15th, the meal will feature a five-course menu, plus wine, from five regions in Italy. A couple of examples from the menu: shrimp and scallop ravioli, and rack of lamb with sweet potato mash. Call (leave a message, if need be) to reserve a spot.

Can’t get enough dining? I chat about restaurants every week with Jane Matenaer and Kidd O’Shea on “The Mix.” Listen at 6:10 a.m. – a new time! – on Friday, Jan. 9th. That’s 99.1 WMYX-FM.