Dish on Dining

News of the Week
If you missed it – and you might’ve – there’s a switcheroo in the works. The Brookfield location of Umami Moto is gone (17800 W. Bluemound Rd.). It closed a few days ago. By mid-summer, that space, which also housed the ill-fated Monsoon, will be the second Charro Restaurante. (The mothership is Downtown, at 729 N. Milwaukee St.). Both Charros will be operated by SURG Restaurant Group, a partnership of Omar Shaikh, Tom Wackman and Michael Polaski. Brookfield's food and ambiance will mirror that of the Downtown Charro.

Also, have you cruised down Oakland (south of Locust) and noticed something different about Oakland Trattoria (2856 N. Oakland Ave.)? It appears we’re going to have another Irish pub, courtesy of Trattoria owner R.C. Schmidt. The Trattoria is not closing. But it is about to have a new Irish neighbor, The Black Rose. Alas, I don’t have specifics on that project yet.

From the Horse’s Mouth
I just took a gander at the menu for the Iron Horse Hotel’s Smyth, scheduled to open May 1st. Overall, the tone is comfy, unpretentious Midwestern. How do you feel about sharing? Were you an only child? The menu has “sharing appetizers.” The mussels, oysters and meat and cheese boards come in portions for one diner, or as many as six. For apps, the early menu’s got foie gras and beef tartare on pumpernickel rye (with onions and quail eggs). Entrées are venison osso buco with saffron risotto; a New York strip and filet mignon; buttermilk pan-fried chicken with mashed potatoes and green beans; cornmeal-crusted walleye with fingerling potatoes and sautéed spinach; and pan-seared snapper with clams, roasted red peppers, fingerlings and asparagus. Side dishes – like Nueske’s baked beans and truffle white cheddar mac ’n cheese – can come in sharing sizes, much like the sharing appetizers. For dessert, more comfy stuff – strawberry shortcake and classic chocolate cake. (500 W. Florida St.)

Spring on the Brain
Would you believe Meritage will be two years old in August? Miles from Downtown, the unobtrusive Washington Heights restaurant keeps the vibe casual and straightforward. Before I launch into details about chef/owner Jan Kelly’s spring menu, which debuted this week, I want to mention – in the spirit of warm-weather dreams – that the patio will be open this Friday. (This is based on the fact that weather folk are predicting a 70-plus-degree day.) And the new menu has playful, inventive feel to it. Starters include ricotta and chorizo scones with avocado salsa,

dim sum pork (braised pork on a Chinese bun with hoisin sauce and pickled vegetable slaw), shrimp tamale with mole sauce, and falafel salad ($6-$7). Kelly calls her menu “contemporary.” No better examples are the entrées – bison vindaloo stew, smoked duck chopped salad, carbonara risotto, kung pao shrimp and pork two ways (pot stickers and tenderloin with a Szechwan peppercorn and orange zest crust), $13-$18. (5921 W. Vliet St., 414-479-0620)

Afternoon in Italy
Feeling like some meatballs? This Sunday is the ICC’s annual “A Taste of Italy.” Each taste – be it an appetizer, entrée, dessert or beverage – will cost you very little ($1.25 per serving). There’s no admission or parking fee. Foods for you: Italian sausage sandwiches, manicotti, calamari, eggplant parmigiana, sfincione (thick-crust Sicilian pizza), spumoni and pizzelle (Italian wafer cookies). What could possibly make this better? Strolling minstrels and pizzelle demos. April 26th, 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. (Italian Community Center, 631 E. Chicago St.)

Dine All Day
April 30th is the day to stay out of your kitchen. Eat at one of the “Dining Out for Life” restaurants and 25 percent of your bill will go to One Heartland, a national nonprofit whose mission is to help kids and families affected by HIV and AIDS. The meal could be breakfast, lunch or dinner. Dozens of area restaurants are participating – from Crazy Water to Lagniappe Brasserie to Sobelman’s Bar & Grill. To see the full list, click here.

Toast to a Roast
Watertown-based Berres Brothers Coffee Roasters has an interesting story to tell. Brothers Peter and Jeff Berres started the company in 1992. Actually, that was the year they took over the coffee-, soda- and snack-vending business their father, Marvin, founded in 1970. From that, the sons launched the Berres Brothers brand. Seventeen years later, with Berres Brothers coffee sold in grocery stores in the Midwest, the company will get a national boost this July on the Food Network show “Unwrapped.” Last fall, a crew from the show taped a four-minute segment, scheduled to air on July 27th at 8 p.m. If you’re anywhere near Watertown, the company also operates a small cafe, serving sandwiches, soups and salads, in addition to a roster of specialty coffees. See more – including updates from Peter, an Army Reservist, on his stints in Iraq – at coffeepartyinacup.com.

If you’ve listened to me dish with Jane and Kidd on 99.1 WMYX-FM, now you can listen to our food chats anytime right here.